On to Zagora and Ouarzazate.

Written by  Thursday, 05 June 2014 21:29
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Yesterday we headed across the desert, not via the piste, that was definitely not our adventure. The bikes are far too heavy for all that sand. Desert scenery is again quite stunning, the mountains are still there, but with sand and dunes in between.

The wind had dropped and the conditions were much nicer because of it. A decent night's sleep does wonders for the world! Our Haven La Chance Desert Hotel was a good quiet night. In the morning I even caught the girls' camel train returning across the dunes on camera.

Night time yesterday was the other end of the scale. We stopped too soon on the road to Zagora because there weren't many sites to be seen, and I was low on fuel. We turned away from one with which looked too basic.

Then we headed off following signs for another, but never found it. Finally we found a site where we were greeted warmly, and though things were basic they seemed to have everything covered. We were offered dinner, but it was too expensive, and settled down with our usual veg with tinned mackerel, and we braved rice again (not very successful on the petrol stove we are using, and without anything to strain it.)

Having set up we realised there was no hot water, but there were showers. The owners' young son came over and made himself known. He was filthy. We couldn't communicate really, but he was very intelligent. Zane noticed an electrical cable and joked about an electric tree.

The young boy (2-3yrs) climbed the tree and plugged it in to show us the light they have rigged up fir campers. He then proceeded to climb higher and higher when I put the cable up out of his reach. Silly me! His older brother eventually came and took him out of the tree and away.

He returned later for more attention. Very inquisitive, looking at everything. Insect bite pen, carving chisels and knife.... Not really a set up for an inquisitive child! Eventually I carried him back to his mud house when we were unable to shoo him away from the tent, swinging him around on the way making it a game, and said goodnight.

The entire site seemed to have been built from the mud it was built on. Half the space was grass for the sheep and goats, then the other half set up for campers. There were some mud hut rooms I think, but we're definitely happier in our tent!

The family had a mud house, which I think the animals were brought into at night, though they may have had an entirely separate inside space around the back. We couldn't see. There were un furnished Berber rooms, without their blanket roofs. The loo and shower blocks were mud with electrics and plumbing.

In the middle of the site were large palm trees for shade, and a sheltered seating area for currently absent campers.

Today the young boy came back as soon as we were up. He was very keen to see the tent, but not quite brave enough to come in for long. When I told him he couldn't have the knee armour from my bike trousers he hid outside the door.

He had sat on the bike the night before, and was trying to climb up again, so we had to keep a close eye on him. Falling out of his date palm is one thing, having my bike fall on him was quite another! We paid up, and left once we had finished packing with the boy chasing us to the gate.

The road out was good, though with the donkeys, and doves and mullah in his mosque last night had not been peaceful sleep. We went on to Zagora for money and fuel, and realised there were many more campsites just up the road.

I imagine facilities were better, but perhaps without the experience of our little friend something of the trip would have been lost. Winding back up north we had hoped for cooler weather today, but it is baking still. We headed to Ouarzazate and on through to camp away from the noisy town.

We have found a pleasant site, so far the only drawback is salty water. We will walk into town when it begins to cool down to get some bottled water, and maybe half a chicken for dinner. Spoiling ourselves again.