We headed out to the sea front area of Kenitra to learn that the next possibility was a 'surf camp' not a campsite! Our mistake, didn't look at the details. However the detour road was nice, and Zane saw flamingoes, but I wasn't attentive enough.
Eventually we found a city centre campsite in Kenitra. We were definitely in for a noisy night. There were several minarets, one of them particularly loud and proud with his calls to prayer. Perhaps this was to make up for the lack of a donkey, there were plenty of barking dogs to lull us to sleep though. Have I mentioned the first call to prayer is at 4:30am? Oh yes, every morning.
We pitched our tent under three big trees, but Moroccans don't seem to realise that camping involves tent pegs, so we tied the guy ropes and corners of the tent to rocks and concrete blocks. Camping here is not for those without 'creative problem solving' skills.
Before settling down we headed into town on foot, and stumbled across a lovely market, where nobody tried to sell us anything. Whilst the difference in goods between tourist market and local market are minimal, it is an entirely different, and very pleasant experience.
We bought some crumpet type bread, hoping for a taste sensation, but got blandness. A drop of butter and marmite after toasting it a little longer would have gone down a treat. We have been on the look out for savoury street food, but only seem to find a cross between baklava and a samosa, which we haven't been brave enough to try. It appears so be dripping with syrup glaze, but there is a slightly savoury smell there too.
On our way back to the campsite we got a 'demi poulet emporter' (aka a half chicken to go) to supplement our usual pasta and veg. The bones made a nice treat for the campsite kittens too, and very yummy it was. There was a green lightly spiced stuffing, and a lightly curried tomato sauce for me, which made a lovely change. Zane didn't hold on to his for long, and was up three times in the night with his dodgy tummy. :(
We met a couple of American ladies in the campsite, just starting on their way down through the country, and recommended a few of our better experiences for their journey. We also photographed a few pages of their campsite guide for our last few stops on our way out, and helped with a broken tent pole, we hope.
One night of the the noisy site was enough, so we headed for the relative serenity of a lagoon, a little further up the coast. We took the back road, not recommended by the campsite guide due to it's state of disrepair. It was indeed in need of a little more tarmac! Challenging in Zane's current state of exhaustion. We passed acres of sunflowers, and maybe banana palms in the makeshift greenhouses.
We reached Moulay in time for a late lunch, stopping at the first campsite, and signing in, before realising it was not the recommended one. As we hadn't paid anything and are getting more confident we rode on out again to find the lagoon side site.
It was well worth the effort. We almost managed to get the pegs in, and didn't need rocks for our guys! We do however have the usual chorus of barking dogs, but so far no donkey. There was a horse earlier, but he was just passing through...
Once again the afternoon consisted of a wander into town. A little coffee and juice looking out over the sea, Zane said it reminded him of Teignmouth, with the houses built on the steep hillsides, and the acres of golden sand. (I think he will be disappointed when he sees Teignmouth beach again) our usual veg and pasta, a little washing, and it was time to take cover from the mozzies, the only downside to waterfront camping!
We're now seeing lightning flashes and hearing thunder. Will this be our second experience of African rain? We'll let you know next time...
There was no rain, just lightning behind clouds, and huge rumbles of thunder. On to Chefchauen today...